Senior editor and core member of the editorial team, contributing criticism and features across contemporary art, film and literature.

By Sara Bright

In late February 2024, a brief Instagram video clip shared by Apple Music broadcaster Zane Lowe ignited a frenzy across international beauty and fashion media. The subject of the clip was Selena Gomez, but the true focal point was her hair. Departing from her signature cascading waves and seamless layers, Gomez debuted a disconnected, bi-level hairstyle that beauty editors at Cosmopolitan and Yahoo immediately identified as a variation of the “jellyfish haircut.”

This avant-garde silhouette, defined by a distinct, short top layer resembling a rounded bob and elongated, wispy strands trailing beneath like tentacles, represents one of the most polarizing and fascinating beauty trends of the decade. By adopting a softer, more wearable iteration of the jellyfish cut, the Rare Beauty founder and billionaire mogul successfully bridged the gap between internet subculture and mainstream Hollywood glamour. To understand the gravity of this styling choice, one must examine the historical architecture of the cut, the algorithmic power of TikTok, and the decade-long collaborative relationship between Gomez and her trusted hairstylist, Marissa Marino.

The Heian Period Origins: From Hime Cut to Marine Life

While the term “jellyfish haircut” feels intrinsically tied to the vocabulary of modern social media, its structural DNA is ancient. The style is a direct, albeit mutated, descendant of the Japanese hime (princess) cut, which originated during the Heian period (794–1185 AD). During this era, noblewomen of the imperial court would grow their hair to extreme lengths, often trailing to the floor. However, upon reaching adulthood – a ceremony known as binogi – the front side-locks of their hair were symmetrically sliced to chin or cheek length.

This blunt, face-framing disconnection served as a visual marker of aristocratic status. For centuries, the hime cut remained a specific cultural touchstone, periodically resurfacing in Japanese anime and manga aesthetics. The modern jellyfish cut takes the hime’s blunt, bi-level concept and exaggerates it. Instead of merely severing the front locks, the jellyfish cut extends the short layer 360 degrees around the circumference of the head. The result is a sharp, architectural “shelf” that creates the illusion of a short bob sitting directly on top of ultra-long extensions.

Unlike the seamless blending techniques taught in traditional Western cosmetology, the jellyfish cut intentionally rebels against the gradient. It forces the eye to process two contradictory lengths simultaneously. When fashion observers analyse the main fashion trends in Britain, the infiltration of such heavily structural, historically layered looks highlights a broader cultural shift towards high-contrast, statement-making personal style.

The Algorithm’s Darling: TikTok and the DIY Rebellion

Before Selena Gomez elevated the look to the Hollywood A-list in early 2024, the jellyfish haircut incubated in the digital petri dish of TikTok. Throughout 2022 and 2023, the hashtag #jellyfishhaircut amassed billions of cumulative views. Content creator Mari Melody is widely credited with coining the marine-inspired moniker, posting viral tutorials that demonstrated the precise sectioning required to achieve the tentacle-like effect.

The trend resonated deeply with Generation Z, functioning as a post-pandemic aesthetic rebellion. After years of lockdowns characterized by low-maintenance styling and grown-out roots, younger demographics craved deliberate, highly engineered looks that required absolute commitment. The jellyfish cut is inherently anti-stealth wealth; it cannot be hidden or easily pinned back. It demands attention.

The music industry quickly recognised the visual impact of the silhouette. K-pop idols, who frequently operate at the vanguard of experimental beauty, were early adopters. Momo from the group TWICE and Lisa from BLACKPINK integrated variations of the hime and jellyfish cuts into their global tours. Western artists followed suit, with Billie Eilish sporting a razor-sharp, jet-black iteration that perfectly complemented her grunge-inspired sartorial choices. Even established Hollywood veterans like Nicole Kidman experimented with temporary, editorial versions of the bi-level cut for high-fashion magazine covers. By the time Gomez adopted the style, the jellyfish cut had successfully transitioned from a niche, anime-inspired internet curiosity to a legitimate editorial fixture.

Marissa Marino: The Architect of Selena’s Strands

The execution of a jellyfish haircut is notoriously unforgiving. Without precise weight distribution and strategic texturizing, the top layer can easily appear blocky, resembling an ill-fitting helmet rather than a chic, intentional bob. The fact that Gomez’s February 2024 iteration felt wearable rather than costume-like is a testament to the technical prowess of her long-time hairstylist, Marissa Marino.

Marino has been the primary architect of Gomez’s hair evolution since 2014. Over the past decade, Marino has navigated the singer through an exhaustive catalogue of stylistic eras. She was responsible for the heavily textured shoulder-length lob and “shaggy bangs” that Gomez debuted in 2019, as well as the sleek, architectural updos and voluminous ponytails the actress frequently wears to major industry events like the Golden Globes and the Emmy Awards. More recently, Marino styled Gomez in a blunt “Parisian bob” and a bouncy, fringe-heavy look playfully dubbed the “Willy Wonka” bob by fashion commentators in late 2023.

For the jellyfish cut, Marino’s approach was a masterclass in adaptation. Rather than inflicting a harsh, geometric shelf around Gomez’s face, Marino opted for a heavily layered, texturized interpretation. By using a razor to shatter the ends of the upper bob and incorporating wispy, sweeping fringe, Marino softened the transition between the two lengths. The underlying “tentacles” were kept relatively thin, preventing the overall silhouette from becoming excessively heavy.

While the internet was quick to slap the “jellyfish” label on the look, Marino’s execution actually blended elements of the traditional shag, the modern wolf cut, and the structural hime. This hybrid approach ensured that the style framed Gomez’s face perfectly, maintaining her signature glamour while simultaneously acknowledging a radical internet trend.

The Cultural Weight of the Disconnected Cut

When a figure as culturally dominant as Selena Gomez – the most-followed woman on Instagram with over 420 million followers – adopts a specific aesthetic, it immediately alters the commercial beauty landscape. Gomez is not merely a celebrity; as the founder of Rare Beauty, she is a titan of the cosmetics industry. Her styling choices carry immense financial and trend-forecasting weight.

The decision to embrace the jellyfish cut, even a modified version, signaled a departure from the “clean girl” aesthetic that dominated the early 2020s. For years, the prevailing beauty standard dictated invisible layers, seamless balayage, and an overarching philosophy of effortless minimalism. The jellyfish cut operates in direct opposition to these principles. It is heavily constructed, highly visible, and intentionally disjointed.

This shift mirrors broader movements in the fashion industry, where celebrities are increasingly rewarded for taking structural risks. Just as observers track the gorgeous attire of Kendall Jenner and her peers to predict upcoming runway silhouettes, Gomez’s hair choices serve as a bellwether for salon requests worldwide. The popularisation of the jellyfish cut empowers consumers to treat their hair as an architectural medium rather than a mere accessory.

Furthermore, the bi-level nature of the cut reflects a modern desire for duality. The wearer does not have to choose between the framing benefits of a short bob and the dramatic sweep of long hair; they can possess both simultaneously. It is a haircut that refuses to compromise, offering a visual metaphor for a generation that increasingly rejects binary choices in fashion and identity.

A Lasting Impact on the Beauty Lexicon

While viral hair trends often burn brightly and fade rapidly, the underlying principles of the jellyfish cut – high-contrast lengths and historical referencing – are likely to endure. Selena Gomez’s foray into this disconnected style in February 2024 proved that avant-garde, internet-born aesthetics can be translated into sophisticated, high-end glamour.

By filtering the ancient Japanese hime cut through the lens of TikTok subculture and placing it in the skilled hands of Marissa Marino, Gomez delivered a masterclass in modern beauty evolution. She demonstrated that hair can be both a nod to digital youth culture and a profound statement of personal reinvention. The jellyfish haircut may eventually morph into a new viral moniker, but the structural audacity it reintroduced to mainstream salons will continue to influence how we cut, style, and conceptualise hair for years to come.