Internationally recognised art and literary critic, writer and cultural producer. Published in ELLE, Glamour, Esquire and Cosmopolitan; member of the Union of Writers.
Paris Couture Week is the ultimate celebration of fashion as art. It is where the world’s top designers showcase their most exquisite and elaborate creations, made by hand with the finest materials and techniques. It is where the boundaries of imagination and innovation are pushed to the limit, and where beauty is revered as a form of resistance and resilience.
But how do you create and appreciate such beauty in the midst of a global pandemic, a climate crisis, and a social upheaval? How do you justify the extravagance and exclusivity of haute couture in a time of uncertainty and inequality? How do you balance the tradition and the transformation of this rarefied art form?
These are some of the questions that the designers who participated in the Spring-Summer 2024 edition of Paris Couture Week had to grapple with, as they presented their collections in a hybrid format of physical and digital shows, amid strict health and safety measures. The result was a dazzling display of creativity and craftsmanship, that proved that couture is not only alive and well, but also relevant and inspiring.
Here are some of the highlights and trends that emerged from the four-day event, which took place from January 22 to 25, 2024.
A tribute to the past, a vision for the future
One of the themes that pervaded many of the collections was the homage to the history and heritage of the couture houses, as well as the personal and artistic influences of the designers. At the same time, there was a sense of looking ahead and embracing the new possibilities and challenges of the present and the future.
At Chanel, Virginie Viard paid tribute to the founder of the house, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, by revisiting some of her iconic codes and motifs, such as the tweed suit, the camellia flower, and the pearl necklace. Viard also injected a dose of freshness and youthfulness, by adding playful details like pockets, fringes, and feathers, and by mixing the classic silhouettes with sporty elements like sneakers, caps, and backpacks.
At Fendi, Kim Jones drew inspiration from the late Karl Lagerfeld, who was the creative director of the house for 54 years, until his death in 2019. Jones referenced Lagerfeld’s futuristic vision and his love of geometry and architecture, by creating sculptural and streamlined shapes, embellished with crystals, beads, and metallic accents. Jones also incorporated elements from his own background and interests, such as his passion for literature and his connection to London.
At Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri celebrated the legacy of Christian Dior, who founded the house in 1947, by revisiting some of his signature designs, such as the Bar jacket, the Corolle skirt, and the New Look silhouette. Chiuri also explored the artistic and cultural influences that shaped Dior’s vision, such as his fascination with gardens, his admiration for Impressionist painters, and his collaboration with Surrealist artists.
A celebration of diversity, inclusivity, and sustainability
Another theme that was evident in many of the collections was the commitment to diversity, inclusivity, and sustainability, as the designers reflected the changing values and expectations of the society and the industry. There was a noticeable effort to showcase a variety of models, in terms of age, race, gender, and body type, as well as to use more ethical and eco-friendly materials and practices.
At Valentino, Pierpaolo Piccioli presented a collection that celebrated individuality and self-expression, by featuring models of different ages, from 18 to 81, and of different backgrounds, from Naomi Campbell to Benedetta Barzini. Piccioli also experimented with different fabrics and textures, such as denim, leather, tulle, and feathers, and with different colors and patterns, such as black, white, red, and floral.
At Iris van Herpen, the Dutch designer known for her innovative and futuristic creations, collaborated with Parley for the Oceans, a global network that aims to protect and preserve the oceans. Van Herpen used recycled ocean plastic to create some of her pieces, which were inspired by the forms and movements of marine life. Van Herpen also used 3D printing and laser cutting to create intricate and organic shapes, that evoked a sense of fluidity and harmony.
At Schiaparelli, Daniel Roseberry expressed his vision of couture as a form of empowerment and liberation, by creating pieces that challenged the conventions and expectations of beauty and femininity. Roseberry used unconventional materials and techniques, such as robot parts, metal spikes, and latex, to create pieces that were provocative and playful, but also elegant and sophisticated. Roseberry also collaborated with legendary makeup artist Pat McGrath, who painted the models’ ears silver and adorned them with jewels.
A display of creativity, craftsmanship, and emotion
The ultimate theme that united all of the collections was the display of creativity, craftsmanship, and emotion, that demonstrated the essence and the value of couture. Despite the difficulties and limitations imposed by the pandemic, the designers and their teams managed to produce stunning and memorable pieces, that showcased their skills, their passion, and their artistry.
At Giambattista Valli, the Italian designer known for his romantic and voluminous creations, delivered a collection that was a feast for the eyes and the senses. Valli used layers of tulle, silk, and organza, to create dramatic and dreamy shapes, that ranged from mini dresses to ball gowns. Valli also used vibrant colors, such as pink, yellow, and green, and delicate details, such as flowers, bows, and ruffles, to create pieces that were joyful and whimsical.
At Armani Privé, Giorgio Armani, the 88-year-old legend of Italian fashion, showed that he still has the magic touch, by presenting a collection that was a masterclass in elegance and sophistication. Armani used a palette of black, white, and silver, to create pieces that were refined and timeless, but also modern and chic. Armani also used exquisite fabrics, such as velvet, satin, and lace, and subtle embellishments, such as sequins, crystals, and embroidery, to create pieces that were understated and glamorous.
At Jean Paul Gaultier, the enfant terrible of French fashion, who retired from the runway in 2020, entrusted his legacy to the guest designer Sacai, the Japanese label led by Chitose Abe. Abe paid homage to Gaultier’s iconic and irreverent style, by reinterpreting some of his signature pieces, such as the corset, the sailor shirt, and the trench coat. Abe also injected her own flair, by mixing and matching different fabrics and patterns, such as denim, leather, plaid, and floral, to create pieces that were eclectic and edgy.
Paris Couture Week was a testament to the resilience and relevance of couture, as well as to the talent and vision of the designers who keep it alive and thriving. It was a reminder that beauty can be a source of inspiration and hope, especially in times of crisis and despair. It was also a celebration of the art and the craft of fashion, as well as of the emotion and the passion that it evokes.
