Milan Fashion Week, one of the most anticipated events in the fashion calendar, wrapped up on Sunday after six days of runway shows, presentations, and digital showcases. The Fall-Winter 2024 collections, which were mostly unveiled online due to the ongoing Covid-19 restrictions, reflected the mood and the needs of a world that is slowly emerging from a global crisis.
Many designers opted for a return to the classics, revisiting and reinterpreting the staples of Italian fashion, such as tailoring, knitwear, leather, and denim. However, they also injected a dose of creativity, innovation, and optimism, offering new ways of dressing for a post-pandemic era.
Here are some of the highlights and trends from Milan Fashion Week Fall-Winter 2024.
Prada: A Dialogue Between Simplicity And Complexity
Prada, the powerhouse of Italian fashion, presented its second collection co-designed by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, who joined the brand as co-creative director last year. The duo explored the idea of contrast and contradiction, juxtaposing simplicity and complexity, elegance and practicality, tradition and technology.
The collection featured sleek and streamlined silhouettes, with coats, jackets, and dresses that hugged the body and emphasized the waist. The fabrics were rich and luxurious, such as cashmere, bouclé, leather, and faux fur. The colours were mostly muted and monochrome, with occasional pops of bright yellow, pink, and green.
However, the simplicity of the shapes was contrasted by the complexity of the details, such as the geometric patterns, the oversized pockets, the detachable hoods, and the gloves that extended from the sleeves. The accessories were also striking, such as the pointy shoes, the chunky boots, and the bags that resembled pillows or blankets. The collection also featured a collaboration with the German textile artist Eva Maria Schön, whose abstract prints added a touch of artistry and whimsy.
The show was streamed live from a circular space covered with faux fur, creating a cozy and intimate atmosphere. The designers also engaged in a Q&A session with the viewers, answering questions about their creative process, their inspirations, and their vision for the future of fashion.
Gucci: A Celebration Of The House’s 100th Anniversary
Gucci, the global phenomenon led by Alessandro Michele, celebrated its 100th anniversary with a collection that paid homage to its history and legacy. The collection, titled “Aria”, was a tribute to the founder Guccio Gucci, who started the brand as a leather goods company in Florence in 1921, and to the creative directors who shaped its identity over the decades, such as Tom Ford, Frida Giannini, and Michele himself.
The collection was a remix of Gucci’s most iconic and recognizable elements, such as the horsebit, the GG logo, the green-red-green stripe, the floral prints, and the bamboo handle. The collection also featured references to other luxury brands, such as Balenciaga, which is owned by the same parent company as Gucci, Kering. The result was a playful and eclectic mix of styles, eras, and influences, that showcased the versatility and the relevance of Gucci in the fashion landscape.
The show was filmed in a dark and mysterious setting, resembling a nightclub or a theater, with flashing lights and a soundtrack that included songs by Lil Pump, Bhad Bhabie, and Die Antwoord. The models walked through different rooms, each with a different theme and mood, such as a garden, a casino, a runway, and a backstage. The show ended with a surprise appearance by the singer Harry Styles, who is one of Gucci’s ambassadors and muses, wearing a fur coat and a sparkling suit.
Fendi: A Fresh Start With Kim Jones
Fendi, the family-owned fur and leather specialist, marked a new chapter with its first womenswear collection designed by Kim Jones, who joined the brand as artistic director last year. Jones, who is also the menswear designer for Dior, succeeded the late Karl Lagerfeld, who was Fendi’s creative director for 54 years.
Jones said he was inspired by the women in his life, as well as by the women who are part of the Fendi family, such as Silvia Venturini Fendi, the daughter of Anna Fendi and the head of accessories, and Delfina Delettrez Fendi, the granddaughter of Anna Fendi and the founder of a jewelry line. He also said he was influenced by the literary works of Virginia Woolf, the Bloomsbury Group, and the Mitford sisters.
The collection was a blend of femininity and masculinity, of softness and structure, of romance and realism. The collection featured fluid and draped dresses, skirts, and tops, made of silk, satin, chiffon, and lace, in delicate shades of white, cream, beige, and pink. The collection also featured sharp and tailored suits, coats, and jackets, made of wool, cashmere, leather, and fur, in darker tones of black, brown, gray, and navy. The collection also included some of Jones’ signature elements, such as the use of embroidery, beading, and feathers, as well as the collaboration with the British milliner Stephen Jones, who created the hats and the headpieces.
The show was held at the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana, the headquarters of Fendi in Rome, which was transformed into a glass maze with mirrored walls and floors. The models, who included some of the biggest names in the industry, such as Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, Christy Turlington, and Cara Delevingne, walked through the labyrinth, reflecting the complexity and the diversity of the Fendi woman.
Versace: A Tribute To The Power Of Medusa
Versace, the epitome of glamour and sexiness, presented a collection that was inspired by one of its most emblematic symbols: the Medusa. The mythical creature, who had snakes for hair and could turn anyone who looked at her into stone, was a recurring motif in the collection, appearing on prints, embroideries, accessories, and jewelry.
The collection was a celebration of the power and the allure of Medusa, and by extension, of the Versace woman. The collection featured bold and vibrant colours, such as red, yellow, blue, and green, as well as metallic and iridescent fabrics, such as sequins, lamé, and lurex. The collection also featured sensual and flattering shapes, such as mini dresses, crop tops, pencil skirts, and bodysuits, that accentuated the curves and the confidence of the models.
The show was filmed in a digital format, using a green screen and special effects to create a futuristic and surreal scenery. The models, who included some of the current stars of the fashion world, such as Bella Hadid, Kendall Jenner, and Precious Lee, walked on a virtual runway that was surrounded by giant statues of Medusa, creating a contrast between the ancient and the modern, the real and the unreal.
Dolce & Gabbana: A Celebration Of Craftsmanship And Technology
Dolce & Gabbana, the masters of Italian glamour and sensuality, presented a collection that was a celebration of craftsmanship and technology, two aspects that are often seen as opposites, but that can coexist and complement each other. The collection, titled “Fashion Devotion”, was a result of a collaboration with Istituto Italiano di Tecnologia (IIT), a research center that focuses on robotics, artificial intelligence, and biotechnology.
The collection featured a mix of traditional and innovative materials, such as wool, cashmere, lace, velvet, and brocade, as well as nylon, neoprene, rubber, and plastic. The collection also featured a mix of hand-made and machine-made techniques, such as embroidery, crochet, knitting, and weaving, as well as 3D printing, laser cutting, and LED lighting. The collection also featured a mix of classic and futuristic styles, such as suits, coats, and dresses, as well as hoodies, jackets, and leggings, that combined elegance and functionality.
The show was held at the Humanoid and Bioengineering Lab of IIT in Genoa, where the models walked among robots, drones, and cyborgs, creating a dialogue between fashion and science. The show also featured a live performance by the Italian rapper Sfera Ebbasta, who sang some of his hits, such as “Bottiglie Privè” and “Hollywood”.
