Internationally recognised art and literary critic, writer and cultural producer. Published in ELLE, Glamour, Esquire and Cosmopolitan; member of the Union of Writers.
Brigitte Bardot, one of the most iconic figures of 20th-century cinema, recently celebrated her 90th birthday. More than just an actress, she symbolised the liberated spirit of post-war France, challenging societal norms and reshaping the world’s perception of beauty and femininity. From her debut as a young starlet to her rise as an international sex symbol, Bardot’s influence on cinema, fashion, and culture endures to this day. This article explores the milestones of her career, the controversies she stirred, and how she became an everlasting symbol of French allure.
Early Beginnings: ‘Manina, The Girl in the Bikini’
Bardot’s film career began when she was only a teenager, and by the time she appeared in Manina, The Girl in the Bikini (1952), she was already causing a stir. At just 17, her role in this film was both scandalous and revolutionary. Appearing in a bikini – a garment that, in the early 1950s, was still considered provocative – Bardot quickly established herself as a rebellious figure in a conservative society.
The film itself tells the story of a young woman, Manina, who falls in love with an older student. While the plot may seem relatively simple, the significance lies in Bardot’s appearance. At the time, a contract was signed by Bardot’s father, as she was still a minor, preventing her from appearing in revealing outfits. When her father discovered that she had filmed scenes in a bikini, he attempted to take legal action, but ultimately lost.
This moment in Bardot’s early career not only defined her as a figure willing to push boundaries but also popularised the bikini, a fashion statement that would become synonymous with her image in the years to come. The Manina controversy foreshadowed her future in cinema – one of constant defiance, beauty, and sexual liberation.
‘And God Created Woman’: Bardot’s Cinematic Breakthrough
Bardot’s true breakthrough came in 1956 with Roger Vadim’s And God Created Woman, a film that catapulted her to international fame. As the lead character, Juliette, Bardot embodied a free-spirited, sensual woman who defied social norms, unapologetically embracing her sexuality. The film caused a sensation, particularly in conservative societies, as it portrayed female desire in a way rarely seen before on the big screen.
The film wasn’t just a cinematic success; it was a cultural phenomenon. Bardot’s portrayal of Juliette encapsulated the shifting attitudes of the post-war era, where women were beginning to assert their independence and question traditional gender roles. Her ability to portray a character who, much like herself, existed outside societal conventions, made Bardot a muse for the emerging feminist movement, even if she didn’t always align with it in her personal beliefs.
The success of And God Created Woman also solidified Bardot’s status as a sex symbol, a title she would both embrace and resist throughout her career. The film’s impact on fashion and beauty trends was immediate, with women around the world adopting Bardot’s signature look of tousled hair, bold eyeliner, and effortlessly glamorous outfits.
Breaking Hollywood’s Rules: Bardot’s Influence on Global Cinema
While Bardot’s early career was defined by her roles in French cinema, her influence soon transcended borders. By the late 1950s, she had become an international sensation, capturing the attention of Hollywood. However, unlike many European stars who sought to capitalise on their fame by transitioning to Hollywood, Bardot remained firmly rooted in France.
This decision to stay in Europe was a bold one, especially during a time when Hollywood was the epicentre of global cinema. Bardot’s refusal to conform to the Hollywood system not only set her apart from her contemporaries but also paved the way for other European actors to retain control over their careers.
Her filmography during this period continued to reflect her defiance of convention. In 1958, she starred alongside Jean Gabin in En cas de malheur (Love is My Profession), a film that dealt with themes of crime, passion, and moral ambiguity. In this role, Bardot played Yvette, a young woman who becomes romantically involved with an older lawyer. The film’s exploration of taboo subjects further cemented Bardot’s image as an actress unafraid to challenge societal expectations.
Fashion Icon: From Bikini to Babette Hairdo
Beyond her impact on film, Bardot’s influence on fashion is undeniable. The bikini, once a symbol of scandal, became mainstream largely thanks to her appearances both on and off-screen. Her presence at the Cannes Film Festival in 1953, where she confidently donned a bikini, marked a turning point in the garment’s acceptance.
But Bardot’s fashion influence didn’t stop there. In 1959, she starred in Babette Goes to War, a film that popularised the ‘Babette’ hairstyle – an elegant updo that became a sensation in France and beyond. Her effortless beauty, combined with a natural sense of style, made Bardot a global fashion icon.
Her look, characterised by minimal makeup, a focus on the eyes, and natural, undone hair, was in stark contrast to the heavily styled Hollywood stars of the time. This simplicity resonated with women across the world, and Bardot quickly became a trendsetter, with her style influencing everything from hairstyles to clothing choices.
Controversy and Criticism: Bardot’s Legacy in a Changing World
As Bardot’s fame grew, so did the controversies surrounding her. While her on-screen roles challenged societal norms, her personal life was often the subject of intense scrutiny. Bardot’s relationships, including her marriage to Roger Vadim and subsequent affairs, were constantly in the headlines. Her candid approach to love, marriage, and sexuality was both celebrated and condemned by the media and public alike.
In later years, Bardot’s outspokenness on political and social issues drew further criticism. After retiring from acting in the 1970s, she became an animal rights activist, dedicating much of her life to campaigning against animal cruelty. However, her controversial comments on immigration and race have led to several legal battles and a complex public image.
Despite these controversies, Bardot’s influence on culture remains undeniable. She is often cited as one of the most important figures in the history of cinema, not just for her acting but for her role in redefining female sexuality on screen. Her portrayal of independent, sexually liberated women resonated with a generation of viewers and helped to shape modern attitudes towards gender and identity.
The Lasting Impact of Brigitte Bardot
Even as she steps into her 90s, Brigitte Bardot remains a figure of fascination. Her legacy is multifaceted, spanning film, fashion, and activism. While her personal life and political views may have sparked controversy, there is no denying the lasting impact she has had on global culture. Bardot’s image as the quintessential French beauty – effortless, sensual, and rebellious – continues to inspire filmmakers, designers, and artists alike.
Her decision to retire from acting at the height of her fame, coupled with her enduring influence in the realms of fashion and animal rights, has solidified her status as a cultural icon. In many ways, Bardot represents a bygone era of cinema, yet her legacy feels more relevant than ever in a world where discussions around female empowerment, body positivity, and the complexities of fame are at the forefront.
Brigitte Bardot’s journey from a teenage starlet to an international sex symbol and cultural provocateur is one of the most compelling stories in the history of film. Her influence extends far beyond the screen, touching every aspect of popular culture and leaving an indelible mark on the world of fashion, cinema, and activism. Whether celebrated for her beauty, criticised for her outspokenness, or admired for her dedication to animal rights, Bardot remains one of the most iconic and enigmatic figures of the 20th century – a true symbol of France and a lasting emblem of rebellion and freedom.
