Internationally recognised art and literary critic, writer and cultural producer. Published in ELLE, Glamour, Esquire and Cosmopolitan; member of the Union of Writers.
The New Look is the new Apple TV+ series that tells the story of one of the most dramatic and fascinating feuds in the history of fashion: the clash between Coco Chanel and Christian Dior. The series, based on the novel by Luke Jennings, follows the two legendary designers as they compete for the crown of Parisian haute couture in the aftermath of World War II. The series explores the personal and professional lives of Chanel and Dior, as well as the social and political context of their time, revealing the secrets, scandals, and passions behind their creations. The series also features a stellar cast, including Juliette Binoche as Chanel, Ben Mendelsohn as Dior, and Timothée Chalamet as Yves Saint Laurent. Here are some of the key facts and events that inspired The New Look, and how the series portrays them.
The Rise of Dior and the Fall of Chanel
The series begins in 1947, when Dior launches his first collection, which revolutionizes the fashion world with its feminine and glamorous style, dubbed by the press as “the new look”. The collection consists of 90 outfits, featuring cinched waists, full skirts, and luxurious fabrics, that contrast with the austerity and rationing of the war years. The collection is an instant success, attracting the admiration of celebrities, royalty, and socialites, as well as the criticism of some feminists, who see it as a regression of women’s rights. Dior becomes the new star of the fashion scene, opening his own couture house and expanding his empire to perfumes, accessories, and cosmetics.
Meanwhile, Chanel, who had been the undisputed queen of fashion in the 1920s and 1930s, with her innovative and modern designs, such as the little black dress, the tweed suit, and the Chanel No. 5 perfume, is struggling to regain her relevance and reputation. Chanel had closed her fashion house during the war, and had lived in Switzerland with her lover, the Nazi officer Hans Günther von Dincklage. She had also been accused of collaborating with the Germans, and of trying to take over the perfume business of her Jewish partners, the Wertheimer family. Chanel returns to Paris in 1954, hoping to relaunch her career, but her comeback collection is met with hostility and indifference, especially from the younger generation, who prefer Dior’s style.
The Battle of Styles and Ideologies
The series depicts the rivalry between Chanel and Dior as not only a matter of taste and talent, but also of ideology and identity. Chanel represents the old guard, the pre-war era, the conservative and traditional values. She is a self-made woman, who rose from poverty and orphanage, to become one of the most influential and wealthy figures in the world. She is also a rebel, who defied the conventions and expectations of her time, by dressing women in comfortable and practical clothes, that liberated them from the corsets and frills of the past. She is proud, stubborn, and uncompromising, refusing to adapt to the changing times and trends.
Dior represents the new wave, the post-war era, the progressive and optimistic values. He is a privileged man, who came from a wealthy and aristocratic family, and who had a sheltered and cultured upbringing. He is also a dreamer, who escaped the horrors and traumas of the war, by creating a fantasy world of beauty and elegance, that restored the glamour and prestige of Paris. He is humble, gentle, and generous, willing to collaborate and innovate, to meet the demands and desires of his clients.
The series shows how the two designers clash and compete, not only on the runway, but also in the media, the society, and the politics. They also influence and inspire each other, sometimes in surprising and unexpected ways.
The Legacy of Chanel and Dior
The series ends in 1957, when Dior dies of a heart attack, at the age of 52, leaving behind a huge void and a huge legacy in the fashion world. He is succeeded by his protégé, Yves Saint Laurent, who continues his vision and style, while also adding his own flair and innovation. Dior is remembered as one of the most influential and successful designers of all time, who changed the face of fashion and culture, with his new look and his new attitude.
Chanel, on the other hand, lives on until 1971, when she dies at the age of 87, in her suite at the Ritz Hotel in Paris. She manages to regain her popularity and acclaim, especially in the 1960s, when her designs are embraced by the new generation of celebrities, such as Audrey Hepburn, Jackie Kennedy, and Brigitte Bardot. She is also recognized as one of the most influential and iconic designers of all time, who created a timeless and universal style, that transcended fashion and became a symbol of elegance and empowerment.
The New Look is a series that brings to life the epic rivalry between Coco Chanel and Christian Dior, two of the most legendary and visionary figures in the history of fashion. The series is a captivating and compelling drama, that combines history, biography, and romance, with stunning costumes, sets, and performances. The series is also a tribute and a celebration of the art and craft of fashion, and its impact and importance in the world. The New Look is a series that you can watch on Apple TV+, and also admire in real life.
