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Internationally recognised art and literary critic, writer and cultural producer. Published in ELLE, Glamour, Esquire and Cosmopolitan; member of the Union of Writers.

By Maria Bregman

Scotland is famous for its kilts, bagpipes, haggis, and whisky. But did you know that it also has one of the oldest pieces of tartan in the world? Tartan is not just a colorful pattern woven into cloth; it is also a symbol of clan identity, heritage, and culture. But how did Scotland develop its distinctive tartans? And what secrets does one particular fabric hold?

The answer lies in Glen Affric, a remote area in the Highlands where a piece of fabric was discovered in 1984 during forestry work. The fabric was found in a peat bog and had been preserved by the lack of oxygen for centuries. It was stained by the peat and had no known clan affiliation. It was donated to the Scottish Tartans Authority (STA), which preserves and promotes the origins, history, manufacture, use, and development of tartan.

Using carbon dating, scientists were able to estimate that the fabric dated back to around 1500-1600 AD. This makes it older than any other known clan tartan, which were developed in the early 19th century by combining different patterns from different clans. The fabric also had traces of red and yellow dye, which suggests that it belonged to an important person or group who wanted to stand out from their surroundings.

But who were they? And why did they choose this particular pattern? To answer these questions, experts from STA teamed up with House of Edgar, a textile designer and weaver based in London. They used dye analysis on eight samples from the original fabric to find shades that matched with modern dyeing techniques1. They then recreated the pattern using House of Edgar’s latest palette. The result is a stunning reproduction that captures both the beauty and mystery of Scotland’s oldest tartan.

The new version of Glen Affric will be part of House of Edgar’s new collection, “The Seventeen Eighty Three Collection”4, which celebrates Scotland’s rich cultural heritage. The collection will feature other iconic items such as kilts, scarves, shawls, ties, socks, bags, hats, gloves, scarves, and more5. The collection will be available online as well as at selected retailers across Scotland.

Glen Affric is not only a piece of history; it is also a piece of art. It showcases Scotland’s creativity and craftsmanship in creating unique fabrics that reflect its identity and spirit. It also reminds us that even something as old as time can be reinvented for modern times with respect for tradition.