Milan Fashion Week has long been synonymous with elegance, craftsmanship, and adherence to iconic fashion house traditions. Yet, the Spring-Summer 2025 collections took the industry by surprise, challenging expectations with an unapologetic embrace of unpredictability. In a week that felt more like a creative free-for-all than the tightly curated spectacle Milan is known for, designers ventured far beyond their typical house codes, offering collections that questioned, reinvented, and surprised.
The runways this year reflected a palpable shift. With stars like Hannah Dodd, Nicola Coughlan, Daisy Edgar-Jones, and Dakota Johnson gracing the front rows, the high-profile attendance mirrored the elevated sense of excitement that buzzed through the Italian city. What unfolded, however, was far from the polished elegance we typically associate with Milan. Instead, there was an air of creative experimentation, where tradition was bent, reshaped, and at times entirely discarded in favour of daring new directions.
The Art of Creases: Embracing Imperfection
Perhaps the most talked-about trend emerging from this year’s shows was the deliberate wrinkling and creasing of fabrics – a sartorial rebellion against Milan’s reputation for impeccable tailoring. At Prada, where Miuccia Prada spoke of “unpredictability as a measure of human creativity,” collars were twisted with wire, while structured coats were left purposefully puckered. Similarly, Ferragamo’s creative director Maximilian Davis chose to embrace raw finishes and relaxed silhouettes, nodding to his Caribbean roots while presenting an antithesis to the collection’s otherwise polished purity.
Bottega Veneta took this trend a step further, offering all-leather garments that appeared as though they’d just emerged from a chaotic spin in the washing machine – scrunched, creased, and refreshingly imperfect. Matthieu Blazy, Bottega’s creative director, drew parallels to the childlike wonder of fashion, describing the look as reminiscent of that “first day of school when you arrive looking impeccable and come back crumpled.” What could have been perceived as haphazard styling instead became a deliberate celebration of imperfection, where chaos reigns over control.
High-Octane Glamour Dialled Down
This season, Milan’s usual devotion to high-octane glamour gave way to a more grounded yet still luxurious aesthetic. At Fendi, Kim Jones presented a 1920s-inspired collection ahead of the brand’s centenary celebration. His delicate, art-deco-inspired dresses, sheer tea gowns, and dropped-waist frocks were anything but dainty. Instead, they were juxtaposed with chunky lace-up boots, lending a modern, almost rugged edge to the elegance. According to Jones, this decision was inspired by close friend Kate Moss, whose eclectic holiday wardrobe has become somewhat of a muse. “When you’re on holiday watching Kate get dressed for dinner, you see how many different clothes get tried on just for the beach,” Jones explained backstage.
Meanwhile, Gucci’s Sabato de Sarno embraced “Casual Grandeur,” a phrase that epitomised the relaxed yet impactful essence of his collection. De Sarno’s vision reflected a Milanese casualness imbued with grandeur. Intricate ballgowns were paired with tourist-shop cagoules, and tailored trousers were dressed down with lived-in cowboy boots. In a world increasingly dominated by precision and polish, these collections leaned into a charmingly chaotic ethos, where unpredictability was king.
The Revival of the Blouse
Once banished to the recesses of fashion archives by the dominance of normcore, the blouse has made an undeniable comeback on the Milanese runways. From the floaty, frilled, and florally adorned designs at Prada to the sharply tailored Peter Pan collared styles at Jil Sander, this timeless garment is enjoying a renaissance.
Jil Sander’s take on the blouse was particularly noteworthy. Creative directors Lucie and Luke Meier delved into chinoiserie-inspired designs, crafting blouses from luxurious jacquard silks and finishing them with satin buttons. These pieces struck a balance between the brand’s typically minimalist aesthetic and a newfound appreciation for embellishment and detail. The revival of the blouse is more than just a nostalgic nod to fashion’s past – it represents a deeper exploration of femininity in all its forms, from the whimsical to the powerfully tailored.
Making Noise: The Rise of Embellishments
As quiet luxury continues to dominate conversations around contemporary fashion, Milan’s runways offered a contrasting take, favouring garments that quite literally made a sound. At Marni, Francesco Risso’s return to the schedule saw a collection filled with shimmering rhinestones and embroidered ballgowns that jingled and rustled as models sashayed down the runway.
The focus on embellishments extended to N°21, where Alessandro Dell’Acqua adorned couture-glam dresses with sequins cut into strips, mimicking the sound and look of armour. The message was clear: elegance doesn’t have to be muted, and fashion can be as much about sound and movement as it is about visual aesthetics.
Gucci also embraced this noisy trend, with mirror-encrusted gowns and shimmering paillettes creating showstopping moments. In a nod to the iconic metallic mesh dresses of the 1990s, Versace took things to the next level with 3D-printed gold wiggle dresses that were both innovative and striking. Donatella Versace’s message was unmistakable: in a world filled with uncertainty, fashion can offer a beacon of positivity and freedom, bringing joy to both wearers and viewers alike.
Celebrity Power: Front Rows and Iconic References
Milan Fashion Week has always been a magnet for celebrities, but this season, their presence felt particularly significant. Madonna, the queen of reinvention herself, made a surprise appearance at Dolce & Gabbana, sending shockwaves through the fashion community. Seated in the front row, she was met with a spontaneous standing ovation as she watched models strut in corkscrew-curled blonde wigs and corseted silhouettes, all nods to her iconic 1990 Blond Ambition tour wardrobe.
Dolce & Gabbana’s designers, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, were vocal about their admiration for the pop icon, stating, “Madonna has always been our muse. It’s thanks to her that many things in our lives have changed.” Madonna’s influence was felt not only in the collection but also in the general air of unpredictability and creativity that permeated the week.
Over at Bottega Veneta, Blazy’s front row featured a star-studded lineup, including Julianne Moore, Kendall Jenner, and A$AP Rocky, all seated on nappa leather beanbags shaped like animals. Blazy’s collection echoed this sense of playful imagination, drawing inspiration from childhood memories and the wonder of dressing up in parents’ clothes. It was a whimsical, joyful exploration of fashion’s potential to transport us back to a time of innocence and creativity.
A New Direction for Milan: A City Reborn
Milan Fashion Week 2024 was a testament to the city’s ability to evolve and adapt. While the traditions and craftsmanship that have long defined Milan’s fashion heritage were still present, there was a clear push towards innovation, experimentation, and even playfulness. The collections showcased a desire to break free from rigid structures and offer something new – something that reflected the complex, often contradictory nature of modern life.
Designers like Prada, Bottega Veneta, and Gucci led the charge, proving that even in a city as steeped in tradition as Milan, there is always room for the unexpected. From wrinkled fabrics to noisy embellishments, from casual grandeur to the revival of forgotten garments, Milan Fashion Week 2024 was a reminder that fashion, at its best, is an ever-evolving dialogue between the past and the present, between tradition and innovation.
As the final models left the runways and the lights dimmed, one thing was clear: Milan Fashion Week had succeeded in delivering on its promise of unpredictability. It was a week that challenged expectations, celebrated imperfection, and embraced the chaos of creativity in a world that often feels anything but stable.
