By Sara Bright
Calvin Klein is no stranger to controversy. The American fashion brand has been pushing the boundaries of sexuality and sensuality since its inception in 1968. From Brooke Shields’ provocative jeans campaign in 1980 to Kate Moss’ heroin chic look in 1993, Calvin Klein has always aimed to shock and seduce its audience.
But in 2024, the brand faced a backlash from the British Advertising Standards Authority (ASA), which banned an advertising campaign featuring singer FKA Twigs. The poster, which showed the artist partially naked in a denim shirt, was deemed to objectify women and violate the rules of decency. The ASA received several complaints from the public, who found the image offensive and inappropriate.
Calvin Klein defended its campaign, arguing that it was not intended to reduce FKA Twigs to a sexual object, but rather to celebrate her as a progressive and enlightening figure. The brand also pointed out that the campaign included men as well, and that the slogan “Calvins or nothing” was gender-neutral and meant to convey that Calvin Klein products were irreplaceable.
FKA Twigs, whose real name is Tahliah Barnett, also expressed her dissatisfaction with the ASA’s decision. In an Instagram post, she wrote: “I do not see myself as a ‘stereotypical sexual object’ as they have labelled me. I see a beautiful strong woman of colour who has overcome more pain than you can imagine. […] I am proud of my body and the art I create with it, and I stand by the women like Josephine Baker, Eartha Kitt and Grace Jones who broke barriers in their understanding of what it means to be a strong and use their unique sensuality.”
FKA Twigs is not only a singer, but also a dancer, producer, and director. She is known for her experimental and eclectic music, which blends genres such as R&B, electronic, and trip-hop. She is also acclaimed for her visually stunning and innovative videos, which often explore themes of identity, sexuality, and empowerment. She has collaborated with artists such as Björk, Kendrick Lamar, and Shia LaBeouf, and has received numerous awards and nominations, including four Grammy nods.
FKA Twigs is a complex and multifaceted artist, who uses her body and voice as powerful tools of expression and resistance. Her collaboration with Calvin Klein was not a mere commercial endorsement, but a creative partnership that aimed to challenge the norms and stereotypes of beauty and sexuality. By banning her poster, the ASA not only censored her artistic vision, but also silenced her personal story.
The ASA’s decision also raises questions about the role and responsibility of the art world in relation to social issues. How should artists, galleries, museums, and critics address topics such as gender, race, and violence in their work and discourse? How should they balance the freedom of expression and the respect for diversity and sensitivity? How should they respond to the feedback and criticism from the public and the authorities?
These are not easy questions to answer, and there is no one-size-fits-all solution. But perhaps the first step is to acknowledge and appreciate the diversity and complexity of the art world, and to engage in a constructive and respectful dialogue with all its stakeholders. As FKA Twigs said in her Instagram post: “I hope this opens up a bigger conversation around the stereotyping and objectification of women of colour and how we can celebrate our bodies and art without being censored.”